Understanding Your Power
Needs
In
order to choose the right emergency power source and to size it properly, you
need to understand something about the power requirements of the devices you
plan to operate. The basic unit of measurement is the
watt, and with an emergency power source
there are two wattage ratings that are important:
steady-state wattage and
surge wattage. A normal 60 watt
incandescent light bulb requires, as you would expect, 60 watts, and it requires
that wattage both when you turn it on and while it is running. A ceiling fan
motor, on the other hand, might require 75 watts while it is running and 150
watts to get it started. That extra wattage to start the motor is called the
surge wattage, and it is typical
of anything that contains an electric motor. Here are some of the devices found
in a normal household and their typical wattages:
|
Device |
Typical
wattage |
Surge
Wattage |
|
Light bulb |
60 watts |
60 watts surge |
|
Fan |
75 watts |
150 watts surge |
|
Small B&W
Television |
100 watts |
150 watts surge |
|
Color Television |
300 watts |
400 watts surge |
|
Home Computer and
monitor |
400 watts |
600 watts surge |
|
Electric blanket |
400 watts |
400 watts surge |
|
Microwave oven |
750 watts |
1,000 watts
surge |
|
Furnace Fan |
750 watts |
1,500 watts
surge |
|
Refrigerator |
1,200 watts |
2,400 watts
surge |
|
Well pump |
2,400 watts |
3,600 watts
surge |
|
Electric water
heater |
4,500 watts |
4,500 watts
surge |
|
Whole-house A/C or heat
pump |
15,000 watts |
30,000 watts
surge |
One
thing you can see from this chart is that the heat pump or air conditioner for
an entire house has a huge appetite for power. If your house has a heat pump and
you want to be able to keep the house warm during a power failure in the winter,
then you will either need to purchase a very large generator (which is unlikely
because of the cost), or you will need a backup heat source such as wood or
propane.
One
other thing to note is that if you plan to operate sensitive equipment like TVs
and computers from an emergency power supply, you will want to have in place
excellent surge protection equipment and, in the case of a computer, an
Uninterruptable Power Supply (UPS). When a large device like a refrigerator
turns on, there is no way that a small generator will be able to keep power
stable during the surge. A UPS will prevent your computer from crashing during
the blip.
To
calculate your power needs, you need to add up the normal and surge wattage
figures for all of the devices you want to operate simultaneously. Here are two
examples:
Example
1 - If you
plan to operate a small TV and two 60 watt light bulbs, then you need an
emergency power supply that has a capacity of at least 220 watts and a surge
capacity of 270 watts. Rounding up that's 250 watts continous/300 watt surge.
Example
2 - If you
plan to operate your refrigerator, a color TV and a microwave simultaneously,
you need 2,250 watts continuous and 3,800 surge in the worst case (if all three
happen to turn on at exactly the same moment). If you are willing to manage your
power a bit and make sure they do not all turn on at once, then your surge power
requirement is only 2,400 watts. If you are willing to operate only one of these
devices at a time, then your refrigerator is the largest power user -- you need
to size your emergency power system so it is large enough to handle the
refrigerator.
The
point made in example 2 about staggering your power consumption is important.
Generators tend to get very expensive as you move above 5,000 watts. For
example, an inexpensive 5,000 watt generator might cost you $600. A 10,000 watt
generator, on the other hand, will normally cost over $2,000. If you are willing
to stagger your usage - for example, running the refrigerator for an hour and
then running the well pump, but never operating them together - you can get by
with a much smaller generator.